On our way to Kottayam from Bangalore, we were scheduled to reach Kochi very late in the evening. Though this was the result of poor and hasty planning, we wanted to make the best use of that night and possibly the next day, as we needed to reach Kottayam only a full day later. So we started looking at options. Malhar, who incidentally was responsible for the badly planned schedule, came up with a never before heard name - Cherai. Few quick google searches later we knew that Cherai was a beach at about 35 kms from Kochi and was indeed a great option to spend the night at.
We were extremely wary of going to a beach in Kerala during mid-monsoons, but since there was not much else to choose from, we started looking at accommodation options on the net. There were all types of resorts - 'Cherai Beach Resort' looked great (atleast on the internet) with it's beach facing and back water facing rooms, opportunities of water sports and rooms on tiny islands. So we decided this would be the place. But thankfully, due to a combination of bad customer service by the resort staff and hesitation on our part to spend the kind of money required at the resort, we searched for more options.
Finally we spoke to one Mr. Ajay, who was part of a Cherai Tourism Promotion outfit. He, much to our surprise took a lot of initiative and came back to us with multiple options suiting our budget (all this for no fees). He suggested that we try a home-stay, which was infact the house of a German national and was rented out to tourists. We discussed the price, he agreed to arrange for our pick-up from the airport and all looked well. But then there were still lingering doubts, if we should opt for the resort, even at a lot more cost. After all who knew what kind of house was this and how far away from the beach was this...
So we called back Ajay and asked him two questions -
1. How far is the house from the beach
2. Is the beach near this house sandy or is it filled with rocks and boulders (most beaches are filled with boulders during monsoons)
His reply only made us a lot more anxious -
1. The beach is at walking distance from the house
2. Yes there are a few boulders and rocks
Now walking distance and few boulders are very subjective - even a kilometer could be walking distance for a few and a few boulders could be enough to fill the beach... Though anxious and worried about choosing something on the advice of an unknown, we went ahead and made the booking. We reached Nedumbassery airport at half past nine, the cab was waiting, bought booze on the way (and were shocked to realize that booze had 90% tax in Kerala - hence a huge blow to the budget), bought packed food at a fast food and reached Cherai at close to about eleven.
And what a shock we had... The house was nothing like we could have ever imagined or expected. It was right on the beach - you get out of the house and it is the beach - and that too the best part of the beach - clean, away from the public beach, unoccupied... just perfect. We had dinner on the beach and stayed there late into the night watching fishermen collect crabs and molluscs in the dead of the night - Scroll down and you will find the house in the background of the photos where we are sitting on the beach eating/drinking. As for Mr. Ajay's statements - I guess when he said few steps, he meant one or two steps and for boulders, yes there were boulders on the beach, but about a kilometer away :-) God bless him for leading us to this amazing place...
The next morning, after a few photo sessions, watching fisher-women collect shells, having a not-so-great lunch, locating the 'Cherai Beach Resort' to realize what a great mistake choosing that would have been, and another drinking session on the beach, we headed on to our next part of the journey.
The bad planning indeed proved amazingly fortuitious and gave us a most amazing experience. I'm sure no resort or hotel stay could have given us our own private beach to spend the night and this great an experience... And the best part - the monsoons stayed out of Cherai throughout the night (which could have spoiled all our night time beach adventures) and most part of the next day...
How to get there -
Cherai is at about 35 kms from Kochi and 20 kms from Kochi International airport.
By Road - Kochi (or Ernakulam) is connected to all towns of Kerala and most major cities of the neighbouring states. From Kochi, a cab can be booked, but it might be a little expensive. If you don't mind traveling by local buses, take a bus to either Paravur (frequency of buses higher) or Cherai Junction (frequency, very low). From Pravur, to reach Cherai Beach, you will need to take an auto ride costing Rupees 50/- and from Cherai junction, the auto ride would cost 20/-
By Rail - Ernakulam is the nearest rail head and is connected to many Indian cities by rail. From Ernakulam, the rest of the journey is same as by road.
By Air - Kochi international airport is at a distance of about 20 kms. Getting to Cherai from there is possible only by a cab. An Indica should cost no more than 400/- while a Qualis cost us 700/-
When to Visit -
Like the rest of Kerala, the high season at Cherai is between October and February, with the monsoon being completely wet and the summer unbearably hot. Traveling in the peak season does not necessarily mean unaffordable prices and swarms of travelers. Cherai is not yet marketed hard and hence there is only a marginal rise in price during the season. We went during mid-monsoons and though we were lucky on the rain front, we had problems getting decent food. The place was virtually deserted.
Where to Stay & Eat -
The Cherai beach area is just one long stretch of road with the beach on one side and the back-waters on the other. All the hotels, resorts, restaurants, shops and homes are either between the road and the beach or between the road and the back-water. There are quite a few resorts, most of which have been put up on the internet too. So finding and reserving a room, fitting your budget is never a problem. However you should always be wary of the description put up on the websites. A resort saying that they have both beach facing and back water facing rooms are not necessarily right in front of both. The beach or the back water could be a good few meters away from the resort.
The home-stay we stayed in cannot be matched by any resort - five star or better. Situated right next to the beach (it is as good as being on the beach itself) and that too on the most secluded part of the long beach - you have the whole beach at your disposal. It is a few meters away from the backwaters and the public beach (where the shops and restaurants are) - but those are just minor discomforts that you will ignore very easily.
The home-stay we stayed in doesn't offer any food. Infact we observed that most of the bigger resorts too had closed restaurants (mainly due to the lack of serious tourist presence when we had gone). There was one restaurant right opposite the public beach which is where we had our lunch. The biggest surprise was that we were eating in Kerala, right on the beach front and the menu did not have fish. Food was definitely something we had to compromise on. If you are planning to reach Cherai late at night, make sure you carry food from someplace on the way.
Duration and Budget -
It's an ideal one night stay kind of place - more than a day and you might get bored due to sheer lack of activity here. Cherai is a good place to use as a break during transit. If you are traveling through Kochi and want to halt for a night; or you are landing at Kochi for an onward journey (like how we did), then Cherai is the kind of place to spend the night over. I'm sure there could be people who would enjoy an extended holiday here - but i guess more than a day would just be too much.
There are all kinds of resorts and beach homes. The lowest priced resort charges about 1200/- per night for twin accommodation, with prices going up to almost 4 - 5k. During the off-season it is lower. We found a resort that charged 600/- per night for two (though they warned us that the room was extremely small). But nothing beats the home-stay that we stayed in - you get the entire house with three bedrooms and a hall (apart from 3 bathrooms and a kitchen) for about 2500 - 3000/- Since we had gone during the off-season, we were charged 1800/- and we fit in 7 of us at the place. Prices of food is just okay, with the resorts certainly bound to charge a premium (we did not try any of them, so not sure). Price of booze ofcourse is prohibitory :-)
Photo Gallery -
First Stop - Nedumbassery International Airport
After a long flight, a Private Bar on the Beach is just what the Doctor ordered :-)
Fun on the Sand...
... and then Fun with the Surf.
The only bit of rain that we had for two days...
Looks like a lot of Hard Work... ;-)
...Followed by Relaxing Times - or is it the Good Times? :-)
This is how the Monsoon Clouds move inland...
Another View of the Monsoons moving inland...
